Jamie Murray
Jamie Murray
2023-01-28
Quality fast and reliable service with a cracking bunch of lads definitely recommended
Bill Mitchell
Bill Mitchell
2021-09-14
Contracted this company to clear the flat of my deceased mother. Two young guys cleared EVERYTHING out of the rented property, including furniture, carpets, ornaments, white goods and food/household products, politely, efficiently, and respectfully. Excellent service.
Charles winter
Charles winter
2021-05-21
The guys from Northern House Clearance have just cleared a house for me in Scotland. The house was packed not only with a lifetimes worth of memories, but all the clutter that goes with it. Within 2 days it was emptied down to the floorboards. A great job from a good team of lads. Highly recommended.
Graeme hatton
Graeme hatton
2021-02-24
An excellent 5 star service. Firstly the compassion shown due to the circumstances which resulted in having to use their services, not just on the phone but by the team who arrived, on time, to perform the job. Above all a friendly attitude goes a long way in stressful times. Professional from the start to the end of the day and due to the amount of clutter a second day was needed. I could not believe how much was cleared in just one day, it was as if the clutter had it's own clutter to clear. Hope that I never need to use them again, but if I have to clear another property they will be the only people that I call. Highly recommend them. G.Hatton. Cheshire.
Lorna Hamilton
Lorna Hamilton
2021-02-05
Fantastic service. Highly recommend. The team was so helpful.
Richard Foster
Richard Foster
2020-11-26
The guys from Northern house clearing cleared my deceased brothers house which was in a state. They were very discrete and great guys very understanding at such a sad time. Great job guys thank you.
Xiu Yun Chen
Xiu Yun Chen
2020-11-25
This is a good company would highly recommend these guys. Very efficent and helpful.
Laura
Laura
2020-11-05
Highly recommended. From my initial enquiry I found them to be efficient and professional and was given an immediate quote. On the day the guys arrived promptly and were friendly, helpful and thorough. I would not hesitate to use this company again and I would recommend to others. I felt in good hands and I, m very happy with the service I received.
Ruth Lawrence
Ruth Lawrence
2020-08-22
The team arrived bang on time and began work immediately. They continued for five solid days and completed the entire clearance of my late uncles house, which was a case of extreme hoarding over many decades. They even removed carpets, curtains and swept up so the house was ready for sale. They were exeptionally hard working, polite and charged a reasonable price for this incredibly difficult job. Terrific service, absolutely recommended.

Setting out for concrete footings or strip foundations

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This is an outline of a basic method of laying out a site prior to undertaking any small building work. It is aimed specifically at preparation for concrete strip foundations for block or brickwork, but it would also apply if you were using timber, for example. Besides involving concrete, this includes the other three banes of life; making accurate measurements, levelling and worst of all, digging! I have never made anything level in my life, but I don’t worry about it too much. Our natural environment isn’t flat, it has camber and undulates (up and down, side to side) so why place so much importance on it? Well, the first time I tried building something, I think I found out why. Basically, the more accurate you make this initial process, the easier it it is to make everything fit together later on.

Begin by imagining the site as a rectangle, looking down on it from above. If your site isn’t a rectangle, stop reading now! Choose a location to use as a base line, a reference from which you will establish the outline of the site. You might make the base line parallel to the main building, or at a completely different angle, it’s up to you. If your project comes under the scope of Building control and your local authority is involved, they should define this for you and it represents the boundary where no development is permitted.

Decide on the positioning of the front wall; this will normally fall on the base line. Measure its length. The side walls, obviously, will be at right angles to the base line wall. You can measure this angle with a builder’s square, which is a large right angled triangle. An alternative to this is to make measurements using the 3:4:5 ratio of a right angle triangle. I assume it was Pythagoras that came up with this. Drive a 2″x2″ post into the ground at the corner of the front and side walls. Knock a nail into the centre of the post to tie a line around.

Measure along the base line a distance of 3m. Drive in another post at this point and hook a tape measure over the nail on the top. Go back towards the corner, wrap the tape around the corner peg and continue down the side until you reach 7m. The 7m mark is the position of the third post. This gives you a right angle, the total outline length of the right angle triangle being 12m. Do this for the other three corners. Follow up each measurement by stretching a line between each post to mark out an outline.

Succeed this by installing permanent line markers using profile boards. The boards must be set at equal height to give you a perfectly level reference, if such a thing is possible. However, first you need to think about how wide and deep to dig the foundations. What are they for anyway? Strip foundations are fairly standard for building up to four storeys high but they are not suitable for all situations. They are placed centrally under the walls and help to dissipate the load, making the building more stable and less likely to move downwards or topple.

The thickness of the foundation should be at least equal to its projection beyond the width of the wall. The Building Regulations say that the thickness should not be less than 150mm or 6″. There is a table in the approved documents that recommends suitable dimensions for various ground conditions. The top surface of the strip foundation should be 400mm to 600mm below ground level to reduce the effects of frost heave (expansion).

Profile boards are placed at either side of each corner, approximately 2m away to give you room to work. They can be nailed together out of 5″x1″boards fixed to 2″x2″ posts. The profile of each board is defined by marking on it both the outer width of the channel and the width of the bricks that will form the wall. This can be done by various means such as saw kerfs, nails or paint. Stretch a line between the inside mark, the one that defines the position of the wall inside the foundation trench. When laying bricks, you can plumb down these lines with a spirit level. Once you have established the required width and depth and marked everything out on the profiles, it’s time to get digging.

You can make a gauge for checking the depth of the bottom of the trench by cutting a length of timber to the required length and placing it end to end from the site lines to the bottom of the trench. Therefore its length=trench depth+distance from ground level to site lines.

Penultimately, prior to mixing and laying the concrete, you must mark the depth of the top of the strip foundation. A simple way of doing this is to drive in posts at the bottom of the trench to the required height. Mix your concrete and get shovelling it into the trench. Level it out as required around the post markers. If you are using a wheel barrow, place a board at the edges of the trenches to support its weight. Potentially it could cause the edge to cave in, destroying your hard work.

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